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Author Topic: Need Help !  (Read 892 times)
1071das
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« on: April 17, 2018, 01:26:57 PM »

Hi, all. Never posted before, but need help in Spring/Houston area to tune my 64 S. Have tried everything - new needles, plugs, timing, etc etc. Starts, but then runs rough. Have lost track who may still be around to help. Last was Graham who did a great job on the car a few years ago now. Will arrange or pay for transportation. Thanks.
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BritBits
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« Reply #1 on: April 25, 2018, 10:36:47 PM »

I wish I were closer.  Can you give the basic config of what you have?   And is it runs rough at idle or runs rough on the road after driving for a while?

Cheers,

Jim, Diana and Jimmy
Almost Oklahoma
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1071das
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« Reply #2 on: April 28, 2018, 09:51:49 PM »

Hi. Thanks for the reply. At first, it started to run rough after a few miles. Plugs 1 & 2 were always " wetter " and darker after such runs, so thought maybe issue with front carb. So tried at first hotter plugs. That helped some, but plugs 1 & 2 still " wet " after short run.
Started to work on mixture, by trying different needles, and adjustment of jet ( move tube to flush with throat, then down 2 turns and adjust up till engine speed up etc etc). Not much change. Then thought that maybe flooding, so ordered and installed 2 new carb bowl covers. Believe it or not, found the copper ( brass ? ) pipe going into the al housing was leaking !! Even too video of such. So, had to re-install old ones !
Timing was checked and as far as I can tell is OK. So, I am stuck at the moment !! Was running fine at one time, but laid up for several years before this. Beginning to run out of time !
Regards, Derek
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Velopackrat
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« Reply #3 on: April 30, 2018, 08:39:53 AM »

Derek,
I'm up in D/FW so let's try to work through it from a distance for now. Compression test?  More or less even numbers?  A leak-down test would be even better but first things first.  Checked rocker adjustment?
We're talking the original HS2's?  With the air cleaner and aluminum snouts removed, can you raise the slides easily with your finger?  Point being, you're sure the needles aren't askew?  With slides removed from carbs, can you confirm with a magnifying glass that the jet needles aren't worn oval and they are otherwise still pretty and round holes?
Chris
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1071das
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« Reply #4 on: April 30, 2018, 09:49:37 AM »

Hi, Chris.
Many thanks for the response. Mini substantially original, Heritage.  1071 S bored out to 1102, Longman S 7 Head. Original HS2 carbs, with new jets and ( variety of ! ) new needles tried. Orig dizzy. New points, coil. AUF 214G Electric Fuel pump. Fuel press 2.5 to 3 lbs/sq in. Compression similar on all 4, but yes no leak down test yet. Rocker gap 15 thou. Various plugs tried.
New rocker arm broke in 2000 so much work done by Graham ( hence re-bore ). Worked fine for a while. Only 3k since. Cleaner and " snouts" removed, and dashpot pison clunks. 30 wt oil in dashpots.
Strangest thing so far is why plugs 1 & 2 ( fed from same carb ) are " wetter" than 3&4 ( hence my comment about trying to replace float chamber lid and floats).
Certainly does start on choke and runs for a while, esp at lo revs, but then have to " blip" the throttle to keep things running. Even tried to use ( ver, very old )Colortune but could not see difference. 93 oct fuel with Octane booster.
Will probably start all over and try again !! But, being retired do not have much time any more !!!!
Derek.
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Velopackrat
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« Reply #5 on: April 30, 2018, 06:19:27 PM »

Derek,

Well, you're on top of it.  But heck, let me keep trying.  Nothing to lose by comparing notes. 

Heat shield still in place?  When you actuate choke linkage or pull and release choke lever, the nozzles rise and fall at same rates?  When the choke is off, you've confirmed both jet nozzles have returned to spring loaded ground zero, so to speak?  If dashpots are removed, can you get a dial caliper down in there to measure how far in the jet bridge hole the face of the jet is?  Shouldn't it be on the order of .050-.060 thou?  And both of them look visually the same?  I've never used a Colortune, so I'm zero help to you on that...

I'm jealous you're retired:)  I have a few years in front of me still.

Best,

Chris
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1071das
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« Reply #6 on: May 03, 2018, 08:24:18 AM »

Many thanks. Have to be out of town now so will reply more. in a few days.
Heat shield still in place and jets return to same place. Caliper lost long ago, but they were both turned down by the same number of flats and then adjusted, at least at first, by the same number of flats .

Thanks, Regards, Derek
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John Lieberman
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« Reply #7 on: May 03, 2018, 07:51:35 PM »

Hey, Derek!

Good to have you back in the fold again.  You've been absent far too long!!!

Have you checked for vacuum leaks?  As long as that car has sat up, the rubber hoses could have cracked and deteriorated.  The wet plugs on 1 & 2 would tend to indicate that the front carb is too rich.  Try tightening the adjustment nut a couple of flats on that carb to see if you can get those two cylinders to run a little bit leaner. 
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Velopackrat
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« Reply #8 on: May 03, 2018, 08:04:48 PM »

Still wracking my feeble brain.  Since #1 and #2 both show similarly wet, I get it why you zeroed in on that front carb.  But an HS2 is so simple... what could be vastly different than the back carb?  That's what's bugging me.  And it starts to run rough once it warms up, more or less?  You changed the float lid because you figured the fuel pressure was overpowering the front carb?  That would explain wet, as in pig rich.

How about drain the gas tank and see if there is anything in there but clean gasoline?

Another disconnected thought:  Of the (only three) motors I've torn down and measured, the back cylinders see more heat and show more wear.  On a 1275 I built with H4's and no heat shield, the front carb would (I think) boil the fuel out and run rough at 4K.  Once I pulled over and quickly opened the bonnet, I saw condensation on the front carb - but not the back carb.  WTH?  The float bowl was over the center branch and I suspect the center branch gave off more heat.  A heat shield cured it.

I realize this shouldn't apply to your motor.  Purely thinking out loud.  
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1071das
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« Reply #9 on: May 09, 2018, 11:23:58 AM »

Many thanks to all for all the hints and advice. Will have to take a break for a few weeks, off to the land of Innocenti's !! Regret that the wife's 2 cases plus mine with her stuff are at their max, so will not be able to bring one back !!

Will start again from scratch when I return:- original needles, settings, plugs etc and start again !!

See you.

Derek


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